Stuarts Kenya Blog

Report sent

Well it is 1am and I have finished my report. Currently staying with friends right in the center of England who happen to both be teachers which has been wonderful. They have spent hours reading my report and helping me with editing ect.
Really should go to sleep although I am pretty pumped about finishing.
Looking forward to Annie,Hannah, James and Grace arriving,only 56 hours or so (but who's counting) until they arrive at Heathrow. It has been over two months since I left and I am happy that this time of travelling is coming to an end.
I am planning on putting my presentation together tomorrow so I am ready to present my findings at the Nuffield spring tour on our return to Sydney. That way when Annie and the kids arrive I can give them 100% attention.
I have been watching the weather on the net and it all looks fairly sad regarding rainfall,probably a good thing I am not there.

Last Day in Canada

It's my last day in Canada today (Saturday), I am flying out to the UK this evening and on to stay with friends around "Ashby". My plan is to bunker down there for the next five days and complete my report. I am possibly half way with it now and with a concerted push I aim, no I will have it completed by Friday the 25th of September.
Canada is a great country and they have built good infrastructure to support business here. They don't appear to be the poor trade relation to the US that Australia has become,and actively resist the US from shaping their country.

My new Canadian friend Steve in Barley

This photo is of Steve in a barley crop, Steve felt it should yield about 80 bushels per acre.Their is 45 bushels of barley per Tonne and so it was a nice crop.

This green machine was chewing away at what appeared to be a very nice crop. (click to enlarge)

I was on the road heading to Saskatoon when I saw this fellow.

In Saskatoon I visited four researchers at the university and had some great discussions.

Last evening I travelled a couple of hours west and ended up in a tiny town called "Wilkie" where I was very happy to find what I think is the only motel and managed to get the second last room available. Today I will keep heading west and end up in Alberta where I plan to stay with my new Nuffield friends Steve and Vanessa.

South West Saskatchewan

Spent an interesting day yesterday meeting with three different researchers in "Swift Current" then moved on to a small town called "Shaunavon".
I am meeting up with some local farmers here who I am told are very innovative and so I am looking forward to catching up with them later this morning.
Harvest is in full swing around this area, it seems that almost every field has an oil well in it pumping away.

Canadian Grain trains

This 1.6km long train was making its way through the Rocky Mountains.

There's something you don't see in Australia, grain wagons owned and operated by their Government.

The infrastructure in Canada is unbelievable,after travelling through Kenya and then arriving here the contrast could not be greater.

Canada as a whole appears to be going ahead,the people here are very friendly and are very similar to Aussies in their attitudes.

New Hard Drive Installed

After a couple of days without my computer I was starting to like the simplicity of life. My laptop displayed the "Blue screen of death" as it is known and so a new hard drive it was. The very helpful computer shop managed to clone my old drive and so now I have 4 times my original capacity. This afternoon I drove from Lethbridge to Swift Current where I plan to meet with three researchers on Monday all going well.
The old girl lives another day. (I am talking about my laptop)
I have also I hope, overcome my issues with getting emails out,(and no it is not the outgoing server settings).

Canada

Had a great day today, I piloted another Cessna here in Canada, that is Kenya, Tanzania and Canada that I have had a go at flying.Simple stuff when you don't have to take off or land although it was a great experience. We looked over the country side and it was interesting to see the crops from the air. Our host Steve had organized for a friend of his to take us up.

We also visited a Hudite community and talked about what they are up to on their farm. We also met with another two farmers and spent a number of hours talking about all things agricultural.

Harvest is just getting going over here,there are windrowers cutting canola down every where and we saw a number of headers harvesting wheat.

Monday tomorrow and so back into my study topic proper.

Arrived in Calgary

I spent the past 36hours in Transit, Flew Nairobi/Heathrow spent 11hours in London.I took the tube into Knights bridge and walked around central london for about 5 hours and then back to Heathrow where I continued on to Calgary which takes about 9 hours of flying time.
Today we head out and meet up with a leading Canadian agronomist who is a Nuffield scholar.
I am very much looking forward to Canada as I am confident there is much to learn here.Although the growing conditions are very different here I am sure there will be lessons to be learnt.

Last day in Kenya

It is the last day in Kenya today, I fly out this evening to Canada where I will meet up with fellow scholar Ben for two or three days before continuing on my own. Currently waiting on a phone call to fine tune a meeting here in Nairobi later this morning. I have been staying at the Muthaiga Country Club which is a beautiful place to stay.

Nairobi

Two meetings today that were particularly interesting and worthwhile, tomorrow catching up with an Aussie fellow in the morning. Only two days left here and then on to Calgary,I am planning on catching up with a fellow this weekend in Canada whom I am sure will be very interesting in regards to my topic.

Different pets

For anyone waiting on emails I am having trouble getting them out.I am working on this and hope to overcome this inconvenience shortly. Two days to go here in Kenya then onto Canada.Learning lots,meeting vast amounts of people although being away from home is starting to be hard work now. Interesting meetings planned for tomorrow.

Arusha Airport

My mode of transport, my hosts fly most places,if you have ever been in TZ or Kenya you will understand why. Some roads are OK although most are pretty average.

It took us 25minutes to fly to my hosts farm south of Arusha and to drive it would take 3 and a half to four hours.

Fresh Lion prints 10meters from my hut

I have been staying on a grain farm carved out of the Tanzanian bush for the past couple of days and have not had the Internet,so sorry about the lack of updates

I stayed in Arusha in TZ overnight and this morning I catch a shuttle bus back into Kenya.

I have learnt a great deal here in Tanzania over the pass two or so days and my hosts were outstanding people.

Number one lesson is don't go out side at night, this lion was roaming around our camp overnight and you could see his tracks along the roads.

The Negotiator

I was very tempted to stop and buy something from this fellow,unfortunately we had to keep moving,this photo in at the border crossing between Kenya and Tanzania.

Back in Kenya

What a couple of days, Cameron and I started one day (5.30am) with a researcher in the Negev desert then train to Tel Av iv, then flight to Turkey, change planes arriving at 1am in Nairobi. I stayed for 6 hours at the airport until daylight (while trying to find my luggage) then had a meeting at 11am then finally to my hotel at 1pm. Big day,I needed a sleep.

Today I have had a sleep and am just about to be picked up by my driver for the day, his name is Alladin. We will travel south from Nairobi ending up at a farm in southern Kenya where tomorrow I will get a lift into Tanzania. I am meeting a couple of people down there then back into Kenya. I hope to have internet access although this is Kenya so you just dont know.

I can't understand Hebrew

These fellows are researchers and farmers, they don't mind a beer in the middle of the day, I managed to only have to have one beer through out the day which was a challenge to negotiate. Mr Tubby wasn't as successful.

Statue of a Light Horseman

Beautiful Words on Aussie Soldiers graves in Be-er Sheeva

Light Horsemen charge

Abraham's well

Abraham's Well, being Friday here in Israel it is the start of the weekend and so the gates were locked. after climbing a wall I could partially see what is said to be Abraham's Well.

Interestingly it would have been one of the first things the light horsemen would have come to in Be-er Sheeva (as it is now known). It is worth having a think about what God made as a oath to Abraham about. It was in essence that Abraham would be the father of a great nation. Enter the revitalization of that plan when Be-er Sheeva was reclaimed from the Turkish in 1917. The plot thickens.

A mixed fleet, Camel & Tractor

This is a farm owned by a Bedwin (an Arab) He has four wives and 27 children.

We spent the day with a fellow named Eli who is a researcher at the Volcani Center ( Ag research organization). We drove through this Bedwins farm.

We saw lots of different things including a tour of a Netafim factory who make drip irrigation systems. They have the most incredible machines manufacturing drip irrigation parts as well as Dripper's that get built on the inside of poly pipe.

It has to be seen to be believed. There are some very clever people in the world.

Cave where Aussie soldiers took cover

This cave is just under a position on a hill that our Aussie infantry used to shell Be-er Sheva to give the light horse cover. We found some shells and other things in the dirt. This cave was used to shelter from the return shelling from the Turks who were dug in in Be-er Sheva.

It is man made and started life as a place for Shepard's to hold their flocks at night. There is a ledge that is outside the picture up about 8 feet that the Shepard's would sleep on.

Frankinsence and Myrrh

This is Elaine who showed us her garden of Eden,

this plant is Frankinsence and this tree is five years old.

We crushed some leaves and could smell the aroma.

Desert Plants

This mulch is under a Neem tree,these are very hardy trees.

The Neem builds its own mulch through dropping leaves troughout he year. It is however not deciduous.

We spent most of the day with Dr. Elaine Solowey who is an amazing source of information on anything to do with native desrt plants.

Driving in Israel with background music

Light Horsemen display

We were fortunate to have a look at a room at the Ben Gorian Institute at Sede Boqer.
Our prime ministers wife (Theresa Ryne) was also here in April as seen on the bottom right of the visitors book.
It is not easy to find this place which might explain the few Aussie visitors over time.
The display showed artifacts from the charge of the light horse on Beer Sheeva

Bay watch Dead Sea Style

I hope there isn't a exchange program with Aust and these fellows. The were flat out playing cards.

Although with the buoyancy you would have to try really hard to drown.

I went from Mt Kenya at 9000ft to the dead sea which is the lowest point on earth at around 400meters below below sea level.

Are we on the right side of that wall

Well, it was really Cameron's fault as he gave me the map; First mistake.
After being waved through armed checkpoints we thought that was odd they only seem interested in the people going the other way.
OK, now Cameron reads the map and makes the finding that we are in the West Bank,oops.
We then realized that the wall in the photo was not the great wall of china.
Next came the realization that although it was easy to get in, getting out may not be so easy.
This proved correct, after 20 minutes of getting the third degree from checkpoint guards armed with Automatic weapons.
They checked our car Bonnet, boot under the seats then had a sniffer dog slobber all over the car before they gave us our passports back. I am a bit of a prankster although I managed to show restraint as Israelis are a bit low on the humor front.

Dead sea dip

So much to see

Biggest slush puppy machine

This machine produces around 15 tonnes of what they call liquid ice. It is similar to the consistency to slush puppy ice.
They produce around 200 tonnes of fish per year from their fish farm in the middle of the Negev desert.
Pictured is Cameron Tubby and Amit who kindly showed us their operation.

First Prime minister of Israel

This is Ben Gorion and his wife's graves. Ben Gorion was the first Prime Minister of Israel

Date Palms

These date palms are just about ready to harvest, They were very tasty.
The area where we were today has a annual rainfall of 15mm per year,yes that's not a typo 15mm. By the way the Palms are irrigated with sewerage water.

Israel & Jordon

This photo is of me in a crop of Caster oil plants,they are doing a trial using the oil from the crushed seed for bio diesil.

In the background you can see a mountain that is in Jordon.

Did'nt think I would see these two flags together

In Transit In Zurich

I am currently sitting in Zurich after a 9 hour flight from Nairobi, waiting for my flight to Israel . I will arrive in Tel Aviv mid afternoon and then find my way to Beer-Sheva by train the bus.I will meet up with Cameron Tubby a fellow scholar from Aus and we will travel together for about 12 days.
Flying in just on daylight I could see clearly what may have been the Swiss Alps, Snow capped.

Noah's bridge

Sunflower Trial

Jonti and I checking out the root development of a trial block of sunflowers.

View from the air

Clifford,one of our farmer hosts flew us across country to our next host and on the way we flew over some high rainfall areas.
It is an amazing patchwork to see.

Impala Running

World Trade Center

This photo of the world trade center was taken overlooking the rift valley. I couldn't resist doing a deal with this fellow.

If you click on the photo then you will see the valley in the background.

Hippos in the wild

Mount Kenya

The photo is of a farm we visited ,the harvesters are working at around 8500feet and I was on a hill that was another 1000ft higher. Just outside the photo to the left is Mt Kenya which is 17,000 feet above see level. For all the farmers the wheat crop was yielding around 4.5t Ha.

Rocking What????

Kenya

A couple of locals having a chat on the side of the road, bow and arrow at the ready, if you double click on any photos they will enlarge.

Kenya

We have been travelling between different farmers whom have all shown us the most amazing hospitality. We have talked through the different issues they are faced with at length and I have been very impressed with their activity in the community.

Kenya is a great country and the people are very friendly.

The Picture is of myself and Jonti Barclay who has organized much of our Kenyan trip standing in one of his crops.

Kenya what a place

The photo shows us taking off from a grass airstrip on one of our hosts farms.

The Zebras are very polite and moved off the strip when we took off along with a couple of Buffalo.

We have had very limited Internet access over the past three days or so.

The farmers we have met have all been wonderful and to see inside Kenya with the locals is a real privilege.

Arrived in Nairobi

Arrived in Nairobi

We arrived in Nairobi mid afternoon and then met up with our host’s driver named Daniel.
It took around one and half hours to travel from the airport to the “Muthaiga Country Club” where we stayed overnight.
The number of people and state of Nairobi was a shock, to see such poverty was above my expectations. Lots to think about
It is a beautiful place and thanks to one of our host for organizing such a nice place to have a good night sleep.
Our driver Daniel has arrived this morning to take us to some a farmers property and so we will see what the day brings.

In Transit In Johannesburg

Derek, Ben and I are here in Johannesburg at the airport waiting for our connection to Nairobi. We are looking forward to Kenya and can’t wait to see what we may learn. I can'nt seen to get emails out which is frustrating.

WA Wheat Belt

We visited Mike Kirkman who farms 130 east of Geraldton. His property is the last grain growing property before the station country starts to the east.
It was fantastic to spend five or six hours talking through his thoughts and approach to various business and agronomy issues.
We then traveled south where we had a great tour of the Wongan Hills research station where we had a look at various trials thanks. (thank you Bruce).
Later that same day we meet up with David Fulwood, a previous scholar just north of Cunderdin and spent a couple of hours talking and looking over his cropping operation.
It was good to catch up with a Nuffield brother.

Stage two about to launch

Only 36 hours until I leave for the second leg of my Nuffield study. It is starting to hit home regarding just how long I will be gone this time.
First stop is WA then onto Kenya.
I will do my best to keep this blog up to date and hope that you find it interesting.

The Final Goodbye

After 45 days travelling the world and 100 plus meetings we finished up saying goodbye to four of the team in San Francisco.We flew out Friday night and skiped Saturday landing in Sydney on Sunday morning and then ariving in Dubbo in the early afternoon.

I have had the great honour to travel with nine very different characters that all made our trip a great success for all involved.

There were mixed feelings on parting as we have become good friends and although we were all excited to be heading home there was also a realisation that we had just experiened a once in a lifetime trip.I would like to thank my brothers in farming for their friendship whilst travelling as well as GRDC who are sponsoring my Nuffield Scholarship. Thanks also to Jim Geltch as he works day and night, and appears to know someone of influence in almost every country in the world. This made stage one of our studies a great success from our group's point of veiw. The further time goes on,the more and more aware I am of the incredible opportunity I have been given.

Thanks also to my darlings at home (Annie, Hannah, James and Grace) plus good old reliable Dad and Mum who helped Annie. Not to forget my business partners as well as Nils and Sarah who have picked up the ball while I have been away. Also to you who have been following this blog I hope this blog has painted a picture of our journey that has been interesting to you.

I will be leaving again in late July to complete my individual study and so I will leave this blog live so that it can be added to during those ten weeks.

Capitol of California

The team leaving the capitol building in Sacramento after meeting with Assemblyman Jim Nielsen.

Only in America

The mountains on the eastern side of California.

You can enlarge any photos on this blog by left clicking on the photo.

Sunny California

We have had two days here now looking at various agribusinesses. Some of the more interesting were a tomatoes paste plant and today we had ours eyes opened when we meet with Gary Lindley who is a district manager for J.G Boswell who are the company who own Auscott in Australia.
He showed us around his section that he looks after, 24,000 acres of irrigation which is part of 100,000 acres at Corcoran in California.
Tomorrow we are meeting with some Rabo bank people first thing and then onto a couple of other appointments.

The Photos show me beside a bale of Pima Cotton, J.G.Boswell are only growing Pima now at Corcoran and will also grow around 15,000 acres of tomatoes this year.

Water is a problem here as well as in Australia and they are only planting around half of their irrigatable area in 09 due to water shortages.

The other Photo is of their cotton pickers, I asked Gary how many were in the row and he said they have 60 of their own and most of them were there lined up in the yard.

One useless peice of information is that Charles Manson the serial killer is in a prison that is over the fence from the tomatoes crop behind where the cotton pickers are.

Fresno in California

Some of the team waiting in the LA airport, in transit between Mexico and the US.

We have four appointments tomorrow here in Fresno.

Monster Wheat Head

Mexico, Obregon Day Two

We had a great day yesterday at Cimmyt (Obregon).We traveled around their trial site over the day and looked at various trials whilst different researchers talked us through what they are trying to achieve and what they are finding.
Over the day we visited around 7 different programs on the research station, to see the intricacy of the research was amazing and we all wrote notes furiously throughout the day.
One researcher alone had 2600 lines in his section of trials.
We had a fantastic day of what was for a wheat grower “A Paradise”
We had dinner at a local restaurant and I took the when in Mexico approach to dinning, I ordered the “Guts Tortillas” as well as a cactus dish that had a literal cactus leaves as the base. Both I can recommend.
Mexico is a fabulous place and the people we meet were brilliant.
We left Obregon this morning at 6am and drove to Hermosillo where we flew out of Mexico into LA (USA)where we are currently waiting to connect to Sacramento in around an hour or so.
We have only a week to go and I am looking forward to coming home to see my darlings. (Not the cows but rather Annie, Hannah, James and Grace)

The video is of a potatoe lifter,there was about 100 mexican workers in that field picking up the potatoes,these potatoes were for seed for next season.

Mexico

We left CIMMYT (Mexico City) at 4am yesterday morning and traveled by bus to the air port where we flew to “Obregon” in the North West part of Mexico.
We meet with an association in Obregon who represent seven different unions of farmers, we had some great discussion with them and the traveled out to a local farming operation who grow large areas of potatoes.
We then traveled to another farm where we meet Hon who owned the farm, we saw a durum crop that looks like yielding 8 or 9 t per ha and the best chickpea crop I have ever seen. He expected a yield of around 3.5t ha, they were a Kabuli type.
We then ended up at a local restaurant at around 3pm for a late lunch and had a fantastic afternoon of eating and talking about Mexican agriculture.
This was the first time I have had lunch and when finished it is dark; we left there at around 8pm and made our way back to our accommodation.
We are heading out to CIMMYT’s Obregon operation this morning and have great expectation about what we may learn

CIMMYT Photos

Below is "The Hoff" looking at grain in the seed vault.

Above is Huixia Wa,a resercher with GM wheat growing in Agar.